Saturday, November 29, 2008

Something New

This afternoon as I started on my way to the bakery, after walking up our alley onto the circle near our apartment, I exclaimed out loud to myself--"whoa"--when I looked up and saw this:



Now, perhaps you've scanned this picture and found it most unremarkable, but this is because what startled me so was actually the sight of something quite simple: lanes. You see, for our 2.5 years here--and for how many years before this I don't know--this circle has had no lanes. It was just a big, wide, black hole--an unmarked circle in which as many cars as those driving wanted could squeeze in. What these lanes will change now, though, will be interesting to see, as more than one guest has commented to us that even on roads where there are lane markers, actually using them seemed optional. So, since the point of these new lanes is to use them, perhaps in my surprised reaction to their simple addition was hidden this simple sentiment: Good luck.

Thursday, November 27, 2008

Happy Thanksgiving!

We celebrated Thanksgiving today like most people do in the States--sitting around the table and eating a big meal. We had some friends over for dinner and actually had some of the foods associated with Thanksgiving, like pumpkin pie, mashed potatoes, butternut squash soup and cranberries too. We did not, though have turkey, which is of course the most important Thanksgiving food item. Frozen turkeys are available here at grocery stores in the more Western part of Amman, but they are quite expensive. You can also buy a live turkey downtown, but they are so small that after plucking them they get down to be about the size of a chicken. So, instead of buying an expensive turkey or a small turkey, we went with a Jordanian classic: rotisserie chicken. We bought them at my favorite chicken shop in Amman, and here are a few pictures of the place. Oh, and they have great shawarma too.





Friday, November 14, 2008

The Presidential Elelction: A Break from Antipathy

If you are an American, as I am, unless you live outside of the country I think it's hard to understand or even realize the antipathy that a lot of the rest of the world has felt towards America over these past several years. Sure, if you watch the news you might see a fleeting report about protesters greeting George W. Bush on an international trip or or some survey detailing anti-American sentiment, but on TV such antipathy seems distant and unreal, and if you are of a certain inclination, you might even think the reporter made it up. And you certainly don't have to deal with such antipathy; you can just turn the TV off. However, if you do live outside the country you know that such antipathy is real, and it sure isn't distant. It's right in front of your face, and you have to deal with it.

For instance, although not true of every non-American foreigner I know in Jordan, many I know or have met display, shall we say, a certain lack of enthusiasm for the direction the country has taken recently. Whether it's bewilderment over the war in Iraq or other foreign policies they view as heavy handed or finding humor in President Bush, a certain playful negativity or annoyance on their part is palpable. This antipathy is much more evident, though--and true for almost everyone--in the Jordanians I have met, whose negativity towards America is something different than playful. Here in the Middle East the negativity towards the American government is already pretty high because of America's near unconditional support for Israel, but it has ratcheted up even higher recently because of the invasion of and subsequent chaos in Iraq. People here are always quick to tell me they have no problem with the American people--which is true, they really don't--but they are just as quick to tell me they "hate" the American government, and I've been told over and over again that George W. Bush is a "terrorist" or a "dog" who "loves war," and even that they would like to "kill him."

All of this made the election of Barack Obama as President of the United States a welcome change to the usual negativity that surrounds the country. You see, even if you are an American who did not vote for him--and some of my friends and most of my family did not--you should know that his election is the most positive news about America to have been made in quite some time, and as an American living outside of America in the Middle East, I am craving positive news. And it's positive not just because of the specific man who won, but more so because of what that man represents: the first black American president.

Everyone here knows about America's history of slavery and segregation. And whether it's through movies or schooling, everyone also knows we still have racial issues and problems. But despite all this we now have a black president, and I think this sends a powerful, positive message to people about the possibilities of America. As I went to the store to buy a vacuum cleaner the morning after the election, the announcer on the radio in my taxi was talking about America's first black president. A few days ago an older friend nearby excitedly confirmed with me that Obama was America's first black president. And from the Los Angeles Times I saw this quote from a Jordanian writer and political analyst: "A lot of people told me they had tears in their eyes last night. I was one of them. I saw his speech. I was very moved. This is a lesson to us all, that blacks and whites in America can have such a shameful past between them, yet they come together and learn how to live together."

America has been fighting a war in Iraq for over five years now, apparently in an effort to bring democracy to the Middle East. Iraq may have had elections during this time, but the concept of democracy in this part of the world has been stained because of the methods used to bring it. I think with the election of Barack Obama, though, democracy may have regained some of its good name, and his election--as part of a vigorous, peaceful, public process--has done more for the cause of democracy than this war has done or will ever do. That a black man can be elected American president--and someone from a "minority" group in general--says a lot about the merits of democracy. No war can ever do as much. Again from the LA Times, quoting what I think are some very telling words from an Iranian merchant: "Let me tell you that now I believe in American democracy. Honestly, I did not think that Obama would be president. I thought that the invisible hands of the big trusts and cartels would not allow a black man to be president of the United States." And more words from the Jordanian: "Obama can make you once again respect the U.S. for its values and democracy and all those things we had forgotten about over the last eight years."

So if you are an American and didn't vote for Barack Obama, take heart in the knowledge that the extraordinary nature of his election--the first black American president--is something to feel good about. Even his foes recognize this. Sarah Palin said she was "proud" of Obama, and John McCain called his election "historic." And know that his election has brought positive news about America to places where there is and has been very little. I thought about these things as I walked up to our rooftop with the laundry Wednesday morning after the election. After years of seeing angry faces in response to American actions, I enjoyed waking up to find one American action to be the cause of so much worldwide good cheer. And I know he's just a man who is a politician and not a savior, but as I walked the final few steps and pushed our laundry through the rooftop door I found that the step his election represented--along with the respite from negativity--had filled me with good cheer too.

Tuesday, November 04, 2008

21 Days!

It's been almost one month since we last posted. Part of the reason for this is we lost our internet connection twice for a period of time. Mostly, though, it's because we had our first child--a son--three weeks ago today, and our time to blog has been fleeting. And, even if the time had been available, we really haven't spent much time outside the house talking to people or doing anything interesting. As a result, there hasn't been a lot to say anyway. For now, here are some highlights from his first 21 days.








A few hospital shots.


Everyone is a little tired these days.






Hanging out with some stuffed animals, and one real one.