Wednesday, October 08, 2008

Expensive!


We were out shopping the other day and saw this store. Maybe the owners are just being honest, but it seems like a different name might be better for business!

Saturday, October 04, 2008

Debating Israel

About halfway through the American vice-presidential debate between Sarah Palin and Joe Biden the other night, Palin made a statement that literally made me raise my eyebrows. In the middle of a discussion about Israel and the Israeli/Palestinian conflict, and after Biden had expressed his support for Israel, she said this: "I'm so encouraged to know that we both love Israel, and I think that is a good thing to get to agree on, Senator Biden."

Actually, when she said this, I not only raised my eyebrows, but my mouth dropped open as well. I guess I just couldn't believe what she had just said. She loves Israel? I found this strange, this profession of devotion to another country in the middle of an American vice-presidential debate.

I don't want to leave Biden out, though. What prompted this pronouncement was a similar statement of devotion he had made several minutes earlier. "No one in the United States Senate has been a better friend to Israel than Joe Biden," he said. "I would have never, ever joined this ticket were I not absolutely sure Barack Obama shared my passion." So, she loves Israel and he is Israel's best friend. I hope nobody I know here was watching.

As I said, these statements were made in the middle of a discussion about the Israeli/Palestinian conflict. What struck me most about this discussion, though, was its complete focus on the Israeli side of the conflict, and the complete absence of the Palestinian aspect. For example, Palin said this: "We will support Israel. A two-state solution, building our embassy, also, in Jerusalem, those things that we look forward to being able to accomplish, with this peace-seeking nation... It's got to be a commitment of the United States of America, though. And I can promise you, in a McCain-Palin administration, that commitment is there to work with our friends in Israel."

Again, though, not to be outdone, Biden took his turn. After calling the Middle East policies of President Bush "an abject failure," he said this: "We will change this policy with thoughtful, real, live diplomacy that understands that you must back Israel in letting them negotiate, support their negotiation, and stand with them, not insist on policies like this administration has."

I added the italics and the bolding above to help point out that this discussion of what we call the Israeli/Palestinian conflict left out the Palestinians. Palin said she and McCain would "work with Israel", and Biden said that he and Obama would "back Israel", but neither took the time to discuss what their policies would be toward, or the place of, the other party in this conflict, the Palestinians. Shouldn't this be part of the discussion? After all, we don't call it the "Israeli conflict"; we call it the "Israeli/Palestinian conflict". There are two groups of people involved.

Maybe I should have heard all of this in the context of what was going on in the debate at the time--the strangely politically necessary affirmation of adoration for the State of Israel. However, I can't help but think that their subsequent statements spotlight everything that is wrong with American policy on this issue--the Palestinians aren't even considered.

These two American politicians love Israel, are best friends with Israel and have a "passion" for Israel. They want to "support Israel", "work with our friends in Israel", "back Israel" and "support their negotiation." But what about the other guys, the Palestinians? And what kind of peace process leaves their needs and even their mention out of the discussion entirely? Surely Palestinians have needs worth backing or supporting. Surely we can work with them and support their negotiation. Perhaps they are even worth loving and befriending too. My point is that there are two sides in this conflict, with real people behind the arguments and ideologies of both sides. Recognizing just one of these sides will never lead to reconciliation, and to true, just and lasting peace. It will instead continue to marginalize and anger the ignored.

Wednesday, October 01, 2008

The Eid Begins

Ramadan ended on Monday--bringing to a close a month during which Muslims are supposed to abstain from food, drink, smoking and sex from sunup to sundown-- ushering in the Eid al-Fitr, a three day holiday celebrating the end of this time of fasting.

Although the whole normal pattern of life changes during this month and it is even illegal to eat, drink or smoke in public (much less have sex), it is difficult to know exactly how much of the population actually does fast. I made a point of asking nearly every taxi driver I met during the month if they were fasting, and although most said they were, several surprised me by saying they were not. One of these non-fasters even told me that any driver who proclaimed to be fasting was lying. Almost everyone that I know well fasted, even most of my younger, unmarried male friends who aren't normally among the most religious and who never, ever go to the mosque. My own feeling just from talking to and knowing people is that most Jordanians at least start the month with the intention of fasting for the entire time. Whether they are still fasting by the end of the month is another story--one taxi driver told me a lot of people drop off after a couple weeks--and I know sometimes people might miss a day or two if they get sick or if their will power just isn't as strong that particular day. I think not being able to smoke might be the most difficult aspect of the fast for some, although others have told me it is not being able to drink water. Whatever the case, it's probably safe to say that most Jordanians fast for most of the time.

Eid al-Fitr--which means, literally, the Festival of Fast-Breaking--begins with the sighting of the new moon, signifying the beginning of the next Islamic month. Ramadan can be a trying time for many--a couple weeks ago the worker behind the cash register at our little local grocery store was asleep with her head on the conveyor belt when we arrived to pay. Faithfully making it through the month can also give people a sense of proud accomplishment. In any case, when it is over, the Eid is greeted with great enthusiasm. Jordanians are not the most expressive people, but Monday night the streets were bustling with excited, smiling people. Also, in Jordan, fireworks traditionally signify the beginning of the Eid, and on Monday night they were exploding all over the city, from the small but piercing noise makers thrown by children to the large, colorful displays of the type usually reserved for New Years or Independence Day celebrations.

Besides fireworks, though, there are many other traditions associated with Eid al-Fitr. As mentioned above, the Eid is a three day holiday, and during these three days everyone is supposed to make visits to their family and friends. Just to make sure people are home when you go, though, the first day of these visits is traditionally set aside for male relatives to visit the homes of their female relatives. Also, since there are a lot of visits to make--Jordanian families are quite large--they are supposed to be short, perhaps around 15 to 20 minutes. Coffee is served, as are sweets--usually some kind of chocolate. People are supposed to look their best on these visits, so many buy new clothes and get their hair cut or styled. In fact, the barber I know near our apartment told me the Eid is always one of his busiest and best times of the year. Even children get new clothes; yesterday I saw two little neighbor girls dressed in new white dresses and matching white bonnets, with a blotch of red lipstick somewhat clownishly over applied to their faces. Actually, their outfits were the kind of outfits one might see on little girls at an Easter Sunday church service. Many times kids also get gifts. Unfortunately--from my perspective--a popular gift of choice here seems to be some kind of fake weapon, like a cap gun or plastic sword.

Despite all this visiting--and despite the fireworks and new cap guns--the Eid is generally a calm, peaceful time, especially during the day, and especially after the first day. As I write, our neighborhood is very quiet, and no doubt people are enjoying this time between the end of their challenging holy month and the beginning of a new month of normalcy.