Ramadan ended on Monday--bringing to a close a month during which Muslims are supposed to abstain from food, drink, smoking and sex from sunup to sundown-- ushering in the Eid al-Fitr, a three day holiday celebrating the end of this time of fasting.
Although the whole normal pattern of life changes during this month and it is even illegal to eat, drink or smoke in public (much less have sex), it is difficult to know exactly how much of the population actually does fast. I made a point of asking nearly every taxi driver I met during the month if they were fasting, and although most said they were, several surprised me by saying they were not. One of these non-fasters even told me that any driver who proclaimed to be fasting was lying. Almost everyone that I know well fasted, even most of my younger, unmarried male friends who aren't normally among the most religious and who never, ever go to the mosque. My own feeling just from talking to and knowing people is that most Jordanians at least start the month with the intention of fasting for the entire time. Whether they are still fasting by the end of the month is another story--one taxi driver told me a lot of people drop off after a couple weeks--and I know sometimes people might miss a day or two if they get sick or if their will power just isn't as strong that particular day. I think not being able to smoke might be the most difficult aspect of the fast for some, although others have told me it is not being able to drink water. Whatever the case, it's probably safe to say that most Jordanians fast for most of the time.
Eid al-Fitr--which means, literally, the Festival of Fast-Breaking--begins with the sighting of the new moon, signifying the beginning of the next Islamic month. Ramadan can be a trying time for many--a couple weeks ago the worker behind the cash register at our little local grocery store was asleep with her head on the conveyor belt when we arrived to pay. Faithfully making it through the month can also give people a sense of proud accomplishment. In any case, when it is over, the Eid is greeted with great enthusiasm. Jordanians are not the most expressive people, but Monday night the streets were bustling with excited, smiling people. Also, in Jordan, fireworks traditionally signify the beginning of the Eid, and on Monday night they were exploding all over the city, from the small but piercing noise makers thrown by children to the large, colorful displays of the type usually reserved for New Years or Independence Day celebrations.
Besides fireworks, though, there are many other traditions associated with Eid al-Fitr. As mentioned above, the Eid is a three day holiday, and during these three days everyone is supposed to make visits to their family and friends. Just to make sure people are home when you go, though, the first day of these visits is traditionally set aside for male relatives to visit the homes of their female relatives. Also, since there are a lot of visits to make--Jordanian families are quite large--they are supposed to be short, perhaps around 15 to 20 minutes. Coffee is served, as are sweets--usually some kind of chocolate. People are supposed to look their best on these visits, so many buy new clothes and get their hair cut or styled. In fact, the barber I know near our apartment told me the Eid is always one of his busiest and best times of the year. Even children get new clothes; yesterday I saw two little neighbor girls dressed in new white dresses and matching white bonnets, with a blotch of red lipstick somewhat clownishly over applied to their faces. Actually, their outfits were the kind of outfits one might see on little girls at an Easter Sunday church service. Many times kids also get gifts. Unfortunately--from my perspective--a popular gift of choice here seems to be some kind of fake weapon, like a cap gun or plastic sword.
Despite all this visiting--and despite the fireworks and new cap guns--the Eid is generally a calm, peaceful time, especially during the day, and especially after the first day. As I write, our neighborhood is very quiet, and no doubt people are enjoying this time between the end of their challenging holy month and the beginning of a new month of normalcy.
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